A Caribbean Holiday On A Budget in Utila, Honduras

Tropical islands, soothing warm waters and beaches as golden as the sunken treasure still rumoured to exist out in the beautiful blue… The Caribbean Sea sings a seductive, siren song to avid wanderers the world over with its utopian character and colourful culture.

But what’s an independent backpacker on a tight budget to do in this region famed for its all-inclusive resorts, cruise ships and luxurious lifestyles? Enter Utila, an island perched just off the shores of Honduras and right on the edge of the Mesoamerican barrier reef system, where the bohemian dream still exists and you can experience the riches of the Caribbean Sea without burning a hole in your back pocket.

About Utila

The smallest of the Bay Islands, Utila is situated a short ferry ride from the Honduran coastal town of La Ceiba. It’s the kind of island travellers come expecting to stay a short time and then wake up six months later to realise they have become part of the island’s community. As a result, the one main street is lined with enticing eateries, quirky drinking holes and enough amenities to keep a traveller happy without being too over-developed.

What To Do

Despite its idyllic, Caribbean location, it may surprise you to hear that there is only one public beach, a man-made streak of sand called Chepes Beach, to the south east of town. However, what’s more astonishing is that you genuinely don’t need the sand on Utila. Firstly, the still humidity of Utila means pesky sand-flies with their silent but ever so unsightly bites are often in operation, particularly around dawn and dusk (repellent is a must), and secondly, most of the bars and accommodation are built up on piers where you can sun yourself safely and cool off with refreshing dips straight into the plunging depths.

And anyhow, once you see the glorious, underwater kingdom pulsing with colour and life beneath those gently lapping waves, you’ll be hard pressed to stay up top. The big draw of Utila is that it’s renowned as one of the cheapest places in the world to get PADI certification (from around $250USD) with a whole host of dive shop options at your fingertips. The Utila Dive Centre has won awards from dive agency PADI for its training programmes whilst the Whale Shark and Oceanic Research Centre organise whale-spotting trips at certain times of the year. However, the best bet for finding a dive shop you’re happy with is to investigate and ask around – you’re looking for a place with people you’re comfortable with.

For snorkellers, hop in a golf buggy (the transportation of choice on Utila) and get to Coral View Reef where you can rent gear and make use of the big pier – ideal for sunbathing and experiencing magical encounters with fish of all sizes and kaleidoscopic colours amongst the vivid coral.

Out of the water, spend a bit of downtime at the relaxing island cinema that screens just one film a day, or dive into some new reading material from the excellent book shop/exchange. You can also arrange with a local fisherman to take you out to one of the nearby cays such as the uninhabited Water Cay where you can indulge yourself with sugar-spun sands and crystal clear waters for an afternoon. Visit in August and Water Cay hosts Sun Jam festival with international DJs and all night dancing. There is also an Iguana Rescue Station up on the hill where you can learn a bit more about the little critters that make the island their home.

Where To Eat And Drink

Just take a stroll down the high street for an array of tantalising options. Munchies, with its colonial style porch and iguana playground out the back, offers a range of breakfasts from healthy muesli to decadent waffles, from exotic fruit salads to the full, Honduran plato tipico consisting of eggs, cheese, plantain and beans.

At lunchtime, pick up some freshly chopped mango and a street style baleada (flour tortilla with an assortment of fillings), or treat yourself to some ice cream at Mermaids. For dinner, it would be simply rude not to try some of that fresh-off-the-boat fish, and RJ’s BBQ Bar and Grill, open Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays, attracts a buzzing crowd with delicious options and sides. Babalu is another favourite with its excellent sunsets, checker-board tables for a quick pre-dinner game and large hole in the floor to watch the fish congregate and flicker through the darkness below.

Tranquila is a great, sociable spot for drinks with its double-decker pier before the crowd shifts next door to Coco Loco for dancing late into the night. A taste of the Caribbean can be found at Rehab, a chilled out reggae bar with free-flowing rum, oh-so-Caribbean décor and a view out to sea that is to die for. For acoustic tunes, try out La Cueva, the tiny bar opposite the pier and the perfect place to make a few new friends.

Where To Stay

On an island of such small size, accommodation is actually quite easy to come by and comes at next to nothing. The resort of Mango Inn is synonymous with the Caribbean, with coconut, banana, lime and mango trees dotted here and there and Honduran pine holding up hammocks for ridiculous relaxation. It only has 10 rooms and six cabins from $60USD per night, so you won’t be surrounded by occupants and competing for space in the pool. There are also houses and apartments to rent, some of which are further away from the town centre for a more deserted escape. Around $350USD per week for a two-bedroom apartment, you’ll be left with plenty of dollar to enjoy island life.

A visit to Utila is proof that you don’t need to spend a fortune to live in paradise. With its ability to welcome you with a warm charm and a cold beer and drift your troubles away on the open ocean, consider Utila for a Caribbean holiday on a budget.

By Alex Saint