A Guide To Padang Bai, Bali

Contrary to the assumption formed by many travellers exploring Bali, Padang Bai has more to offer than just a ferry port. There is certainly heavy tourism traffic passing through this tiny town on a daily basis, boarding the boats that will ship them off to Lombok, the Gilis and other nearby islands; but Padang Bai’s attractive, laidback charm, convenient location and host of amenities makes it a haven in its own right. Instead of simply passing through to pastures new, give yourself a few days to stopover and allow yourself to be surprised by its charm.

A small, curving bay town with a wonderful sea view, Padang Bai retains a quiet, small-town ambience with chickens scampering, ladies hanging out laundry and school children chattering away, eyeing the tourists with curiosity.

Another reason to stick around in Padang Bai is that it was built around the concept of travellers making their way from A to B and consequently has everything you might need. Cheap, tasty warungs; hole-in-the-wall bars; cafes with Wifi; ATMs – Padang Bai just makes life a whole lot easier.

Things To Do

There are several things to do when taking a little time-out in Padang Bai. Firstly, many visitors have been surprised to discover that two small coves, hidden from view on either side of the main bay and port, contain exquisite beaches of white sand and crashing waves, sheltered by imposing cliffs.

Take a walk up and over the hill from the police station to discover Bias Tual, also known as Pantai Kecil (Little Beach) and you’ll be rewarded with a perfectly formed, paradise beach. A few rustic shelters serving snacks and coconuts will stop you from going hungry.

The other side of the bay hides a small cove known as Blue Lagoon. This is a great spot for renting snorkels, but the sun disappears from the sand earlier than usual due to the looming cliffs that carefully guard this picturesque, little bay.

There are several dive shops in the bay that can organise diving and some impressive dive sites, not only around Padang Bai, but also just a short boat trip away.

Padang Bai is also an ideal location from which to rent a car and driver or scooters and do a bit of exploring. Pura Besakih, the Mother Temple of Bali, is a drive away, located on the slopes of mighty Mount Agung. Impressive, ornately carved temple gates top steep staircases, leading the way into the holiest and largest temple complex in Bali. The mystical scent of burning incense and murmurs of people bowed in prayer lend Pura Besakih its peaceful, spiritual ambience and the views stretching out over rolling hills will take your breath away. Make sure you cover your shoulders and pack a sarong to gain access.

Another unique cultural visit that can easily be arranged from Padang Bai is Tenganan, the traditional Bali Aga village. This quaint and authentic village showcases the lives of the original Balinese people and presents a picture-perfect example of the culture and religion. Donations are welcomed here and a local guide will show you around the village and answer all your questions.

The Balinese people that choose to forsake the modern world and continue to keep their traditions alive weave intricate and beautiful cloth called ikat and produce carvings depicting sacred stories such as the tale of Rama and Sita. Take in the traditional, local architecture and look out for the sacred village banyan tree and giant, seesaw swing. If you visit at certain times of the year, you may even witness a traditional cacti fight where backs are bloodied by opponents wielding the spiked leaves of the pandan. These fights have a deep, spiritual significance and are considered a form of blood sacrifice, essential to the rituals of this isolated community.

Where To Sleep

It’s all about the home-stays in Padang Bai. Take a stroll around and you’ll see plenty of signs advertising cheap rooms, usually in family compounds. We liked Pondok Wisata Tirta Yoga Inn and its clean, simple rooms based around a compound filled with tropical flowers. Accommodation tends towards the basic backpacker digs – don’t expect hot water, but, to be honest, you probably won’t miss it.

Where To Eat And Drink

The port location of Padang Bai indicates that if you’re into seafood, you’re in for a treat. Expect to find an abundance of mahi-mahi, tuna, barracuda and snapper and although at 40,000Rp, prices are a little steeper than the average budget meal, but the dishes are still great value for money.

For the cheapest eats, head to Jalan Segara to the east of the port. Warung Sinar has the rustic design of a typical warung but with a little more polish and serves up Indonesian and Western bargains. Aloa Café is bright and beachy with all of the international fare you’d expect from a tourist haunt as well as thich, thirst-quenching shakes. For something a little more local, check out Rumah Makan Pendawa off of the main square where you can assemble your own nasi campur mix plate for rock bottom prices.

In terms of some late night drinking, there are three narrow reggae bars called Babylon Reggae, Kinky Reggae and Sunshine that alternate live music nights. The bar staff energetically join in the celebrations and the crowd is fun, lively and friendly.

Despite its reputation as just a place to pass through on the way to bigger, shinier, better-known destinations, why not stay a while and give Padang Bai a chance? After all, life’s about the journey, not just the destination.

By Alex Saint