A Guide To The Aveyron, France

In the north-east of the Midi-Pyrenees region of France is the Aveyron, an area where time means nothing. Here you will find sweeping valleys, hidden villages and thriving towns steeped in breath-taking beauty you wish you could take home with you. Beautiful all year round, the Aveyron is ideal for a last-minute long weekend from the UK, or for a two-week break trying out the local delights in Rodez, Conques, Villefranche and Belcastel.

From London Stansted, you can fly into Rodez Airport via Ryanair. One of the benefits of the airline is that they do fly where others don’t – not surprising considering the size of Rodez Airport. To go onto your first destination, you’ll need a hire car, because all of the highlights are a good distance and public transport is neither here nor there.

Your first taste of the Aveyron should without a doubt be Conques. Drive northwest of Rodez, past scenic hillsides and waterfalls, beneath the aquaduct and through the town of Marcillac (famous for its red bricks, vineyards and Sunday market), and you will discover Conques. On the side of a hill in the Marcillac Valley, Conques is completely charming with just 90 residents and one school for 10 pupils. The cobbled street is lined with traditional shops selling calligraphy, children’s wooden toys, ice cream, scarves and bowls, while the bar-restaurant is perfect for a cold beer under the sun.

The 11th-12th century Romanesque Sainte Foy Abbey may create somewhat of a shadow, but the towering structure is what makes Conques all the more dreamlike. Its unique windows were courtesy of Pierre Soulages in 1994, the most renowned French contemporary artist in the world. As you wander around the inside, the big open spaces allow the panes of glass to catch the light to create soft purple, yellow and blue hues.

The abbey’s medieval treasure includes the Majesty Of Sainte Foy, a woman sitting on a throne wearing a crown. She is decorated with over 100 precious stones, and she holds a vase in each hand to hold flowers when she comes out one day each year in October. During the French Revolution, she was hidden in a vegetable patch, and the gold and silver cross was hidden in a chimney, to keep them from being melted and used to fund the war.

When you’ve soaked up the history, architecture and relaxation of Conques, drive southwest to Villefranche-de-Rouergue. A typical 13th-14th century bastide town, Villefranche has parallel streets leading to the central square with the 15th century church of Notre-Dame taking centre stage. Climbing the 163 steps of the building, you can capture the best view of the town, overlooking the market, shops and houses – just beware of the dozens of swallows above your head!

The town comes alive in the mornings with the food market, selling every famous French food including nougat, cheese, garlic, foie gras, sausages, bread, mustard, olive oil and wine. You can also watch a lady weaving baskets, purchase souvenirs such as tea towels, bags and clothes, or try a free sample of the best melon you’ve ever had in your life.

If wandering around the market gets your belly growling with hunger, Villefranche is the perfect place to enjoy a slap-up three-course meal in one of its many renowned restaurants. Côté Saveurs is a relaxed but contemporary restaurant with amazing food. Located just down the cobbled street from the square on Rue Belle Isle, you can get a taste of local produce prepared and cooked to perfection including Bellinis, veal, lamb, and Macalon (long macaroon with strawberries and cream). The French know food, and a visit to Villefranche just about verifies it.

As food is so important to the locals, social time is spent dining, particularly in al fresco cafes during summer. Even businessmen take two-hour lunches, with clients or without, to have a proper break from the office with good food. If you’re just looking for evening drinks, hotel bars are your best bet, so if you’re staying in Villefranche for the night, find one with outdoor seating that stays open ‘til late. Les Fleurines is ideally located at the top of town, with plenty of cocktails and beer on the menu, plus stylish bench tables with mood lighting. The hotel also has bicycles you can lend for free with a reservation, and 2015 will see the opening of a fitness suite and solarium in March and a rooftop spa in July – just in time for summer. One night’s stay currently costs from €79.

Refreshed from the night before, start your day with breakfast from €10pp, and drive east to Belcastel. To reach the fairytale village, you need to manoeuvre along a small woodland track and over a narrow stone bridge, but the reward is priceless. Belcastel Chateaux has seen numerous transformations since its creation as a chapel in the 9th century, mainly due to many different owners. Now owned by a New York couple, you can walk around most of the building, across the drawbridge, down to the cistern, and into the knight’s room, prison and great hall. You might notice the quirky artwork that somewhat distracts from the style of the chateaux, but the grounds and views are still remarkable. A small café on the opposite side of the river serves glasses of wine and beer, so chill out by the river and sip on a small one before heading to the city of Rodez.

While the smaller settlements are stunningly beautiful, Rodez offers two particular attractions that make it worthy of a visit. The building of the Rodez Cathedral began in the 13th century, and was finally completed in the 16th. There’s a mix of styles, with gothic in the eastern wing and flamboyant in the west, but the stained glass windows are most notable. Plastic windows replaced the originals after WWII with very out-of-place designs. Rumour has it the restorers knew they didn’t fit, but thought “what the hell”.

The second reason to visit Rodez is the Soulages Museum. If you’re one for contemporary art, the steel building holds Soulages’ most famous works of art using texture, light and shape. Adjacent to the museum is an eating area designed by Michel Bras, the acclaimed, famous chef from the Aveyron. Melt into a three-course meal of soufflé, hake and chocolate tart accompanied by wine from the Marcillac region, in the cool surroundings of Café Bras.

If Rodez is the brain of the Aveyron, places like Conques, Villefranche and Belcastel are the heart, and where you truly want to spend your time with a glass of wine, good food and natural charm.

www.tourisme-aveyron.com

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By Charlotte Mellor
@cmellor_03