An Authentic Thai City Experience In Understated Hat Yai

Forget what you might have read about southern Thailand’s biggest city. Or what you might not have read. With a real lack of information online and rather outdated write ups in popular guidebooks; it would be easy for travellers to miss the overlooked attractions of Hat Yai.

Located close to the Malaysian border, Hat Yai is a perfect stop over for destinations including Singapore and Malaysia. And with excellent transport in either direction, many head from there for weekend getaways to shop in the many malls, eat in the diverse eateries and experience the city’s vibrant nightlife.

For this reason, the city reflects a diverse community draws influences from Chinese, Muslim, Malaysian and Filipino culture. Additionally people from all over South East Asia travel to Hat Yai to work in the many hotels, restaurants, shops, beauty salons and bars in the city.

There is also a large English speaking expat community here, with many working as teachers and in the oil industry. It’s important to note that if you’re visiting the city and currently teaching in Thailand, take your work permit or any type of I.D. to prove this as you can receive discounts in and around the city too.

If you’re looking to experience Thai city life, but you’ve already done Bangkok, Hat Yai is a great alternative before heading elsewhere in South East Asia. Another bonus is that it is conveniently located to many of Thailand’s paradise islands. So if you’re heading to the likes of Krabi, Ko Lipe, Ko Lanta and Trang, there are many flexible connections from there.

Here is a rundown of Hat Yai’s top sights and things to do.

Ton Nga Chang Waterfall

Of the three in the area, this seven-tiered wonder is by far the most impressive. Popular with locals and travellers alike, the waterfall can be found on the grounds of a sprawling wildlife sanctuary; making it the perfect picnic spot too. But, do come prepared for a steep and slippery upward trek with nothing but random tree branches for support! I did it in flip flops and a mini skirt – not one of my smartest ideas – so I’d suggest shorts and trainers with a good grip as a better option. The hard slog will be worth it, as the higher you get the more serene and picturesque the views are. I got as far as the fifth tier and the staggering views and chance to swim in a deserted waterfall base made the initial struggle to get there insignificant in comparison.

Hat Yai Municipal Park

More than just a park, this vast green space houses an ice dome, observatory and a pretty lake where you can hire pedalos. Next to the park is also a driving range and golf course should you be a fan of this past time too.

Venture to the top via the impressive cable cars or by road and you’ll not only be able to admire spectacular views of the city but also an ornate Buddhist temple and giant golden Buddha at the hill’s summit – this is a very popular activity just before sunset. Dotted around and on the way to the top is a rather extraordinary collection of elephant statues and Hindu shrines too. If you are at the park in the evening, head to the on-site restaurant for views of a lit up Hat Yai by night.

Traditional Thai Markets

There is a diverse collection of markets every day in Hat Yai, suiting a whole host of wide-ranging needs and tastes. The varying markets specialise in certain areas or combine them all. These include fresh produce, household goods, clothing, electronics, furniture, handicrafts and more. The great thing about these markets is that they can become a full on evening out with entertainment and dining all rolled into the one experience. Popular ones are the Greenway and Asean flea markets, which both specialise in vintage clothing and offer delicious southern Thai street food stalls. Another is the Khlong Hae Floating Market; more for its wonderful photo opportunities. And if you’re brave, you could try the cooked insects that are on sale too.

Excursion to Songkhla

At just a short bus or scooter ride away, don’t miss out on what this vibrant fishing town has to offer. It is perfect if you fancy a beach day or some freshly caught seafood. You’ll find pretty fishing boats lining Songkhla’s coast line as well as elaborate sculptures and statues, including the mermaid; the region’s symbol.

A small but entertaining aquarium is nearby too, as well as a go-kart track. The aquarium is actually worth the visit on its own for its ridiculous show that sees a diver ballroom dancing and performing Gangnam Style with some of the larger fish and turtles. It needs to be seen to be believed! Not far from the aquarium is Tang Kuan Hill, or as it is more affectionately known, Monkey Mountain – for the hungry monkeys that frequent the area waiting for tourists. A short lift to the top will offer stunning views of the area as well as a small temple to visit.

Finally, Songkhla’s waterpark and zoo are another top draw. Unlike zoos in the UK, you can actually get fairly close to the exotic range of animals; while still maintaining a safe distance. You can also pay a small sum to feed the animals which is a lot of fun! Animals you can feed include elephants, hippos, a white tiger, giraffes plus many more. Round off your day with a trip to the vibrant night market or one of the many bars, including the Irish themed Buzz Stop and sports bar Coffee In Love. Ko Yo island is also nearby and a great place to explore for its many fish restaurants, floating houses and giant reclining Buddha and temple.

Swim at a rooftop pool

There’s nothing more relaxing than getting away from the crowds for a dip and a spot of sunbathing. The pool at Lee Garden Plaza is best for sunbathing while the pool at the Napalai complex is best for doing laps due to its depth.

Visit Thailand’s third largest reclining Buddha

No visit to Thailand would be complete without a trip to a Buddhist temple. Wat Hat Yai Nai is the region’s most important shrine, housing a monastery, museum, mausoleum and crematorium; as well as the impressive Buddha statue. Take time to wander its grounds to appreciate the temple’s vibrant and intricate detailing.

Elephant trekking, shooting and quad biking at Chang Puak Camp

For an afternoon of touristy activities, head here to elephant riding along a beautiful landscape, quad biking on a bumpy dirt track and choose between shooting guns or archery. It’s a bit of a clichéd experience but still lots of fun nonetheless.

Eat and drink in one of the many quirky bars and restaurants

Aside from all the wonderful Thai eateries and street food stalls, there are lots of unique places to dine in Hat Yai if you do fancy something different. The Swan is an expat favourite that specialises in pub-style Western food. Also nearby are The Pubb and Post Laser Disc, two great live music venues. While the German themed Gaps Garten stocks over a hundred different varieties of imported beers, wines and ciders; as well as offering the tastiest German and continental European dishes. The Basil is the place to go for authentic tasting pizza while 19 Bakery offers a wonderful mix of Thai and Western dishes. Lastly there is the outdoor all-you-can-eat Thai BBQ where you cook your own hand-picked meat and fish – lots of fun with a big group of friends. There is also a cat themed café where you can enjoy tea, coffee and cakes while playing with the cute furry creatures too.

For the authentic Thai clubbing experience, head to Sugarbeat, Sotus or Bix. Or for a night out that’s somewhere a little more stylish, there are also quite a few. Laid back shisha lounge Beer Lagu offers comfy sofas, delicious cocktails and fruit flavoured tobaccos; while next door at the Virgin Garden you can enjoy delicious cakes, teas and shakes whilst sat in a hammock, taking in the jungle-like surroundings. Or party under a circus big top at the unsurprisingly named Circus. Here you can enjoy live music and traditional Thai food and drinks. There is also the reggae themed Rasta Bar and family run Rong Tium, which both offer the warmest welcomes, as well as great live music most nights of the week.

Words and images by Sandy Dhaliwal

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