Beyond The Full Moon Of Koh Pha Ngan

A long-time favourite haunt of enthusiastic travellers, Koh Pha Ngan sky-rocketed to fame as the slice of Thai paradise that set off a chain of adventures in Alex Garland’s, The Beach.

Inspiring a generation to book their tickets to Bangkok, this island has become synonymous with hedonistic Haad Rin, Shroom Mountain and thumping, all night beach parties held under the light of the full moon. However, there is more to this intriguing, jungle island than neon body paint. Venture away from the busy west coast and southern stretch and it is possible to discover another side to Koh Pha Ngan, where the party tones down and the natural beauty of the island rises up.

Journey To The East Coast

As you travel through the interior, a 4×4 car may be the best way to get around. This island is not fully tame and the roads suffer under the powerful rule of nature with pot-holed routes wending their way through dense foliage. But as any traveller worth their salt knows, sometimes it takes a little bit of extra effort in order to reap a royal reward.

This reward takes the shape of Thong Nai Pan, two half-moon bays on the east coast separated by a rocky promontory. Although it is no longer the quiet, jungle secret it used to be with plenty of bungalow outfits and eateries dotted along the sand, this area feel so far removed from the hustle of Haad Rin, it is like another island where if time doesn’t stop, it at least slows down, allowing travellers to slip into a life that’s a little more comfortable.

What To Do

The larger bay, Thong Nai Pan Yai, is a wide, weeping expanse of silky, powder-soft sand with plenty of space to accommodate sunbathers and those that fancy a spot of beach football or tennis. The winner of a TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice award, this beach is an idyllic haven, encircled by tall, imposing cliffs, thick with forest. This topography creates a shelter, protecting the bay and resulting in excellent swimming and kayaking opportunities.

A short kayak around the headland, which juts out emphatically into the sea, brings you to the smaller bay of Thong Nai Pan Noi. It is also possible to reach this beach via a breathless walk up and over the steep main road that connects the village. Thong Nai Pan Yai is a particularly charming, little village with a few scattered places to eat or grab a beverage whilst enjoying a glimpse into the tranquillity of Thai village life. Expect to see ducks and chickens scuttling around with dogs and cats napping in shady doorways.

Away from the beaches, the mountainous terrain that surrounds the bay offers a selection of hikes and walks guaranteed to help you work up a sweat. Tropical rainforest treks culminate in refreshing waterfalls, such as Wang Thong, reached by a trail leading off the main road en route to Thong Nai Pan Yai village. During the rainy months, this tall waterfall is impressive and even in the dry season, the surrounding area is peaceful – ideal for getting back in touch with good, old Mother Nature.

Where To Sleep, Eat and Drink

Thong Nai Pan Yai has a mellow vibe, so laidback it is practically horizontal. A variety of beachside accommodations, usually with their own eateries attached where you can dine with your toes in the sand, are dotted along the shores, but the spacious beach ensures it never feels overcrowded.

A popular and picturesque place to stay is Baan Panburi Village, situated at the farthest tip of the beach. With a range of rooms to suit a variety of budgets, bungalows include glass-fronted doors mere steps away from the sand as well as basic but no less charming huts, set further back in a butterfly and flower-filled garden. Baan Panburi also set up a mini beach bar in the evenings with a fantastic cocktail menu and put on a mouth-watering seafood BBQ to be enjoyed under the blanket of brightly burning stars.

Follow this up with a few drinks at Yai Bar, the best place in the bay to watch some great fire-dancing by candle light, or set off a lantern for luck and watch it float away out to sea. The Jungle Bar has a reputation as a party spot in high season, with occasional live music and drinks that go on into the night.

In comparison, Thong Nai Pan Noi, has a more upmarket feel to its accommodation, but there are some great value little roadside eateries in the village serving both Thai and western choices and the I Sea Bar is a popular spot to sink an evening drink.

Of course, every silver lining has a cloud and the east coast of Koh Pha Ngan doesn’t enjoy the spectacular sunsets of the west. But the lifestyle is different out here. It’s the early birds that are rewarded with a five star sunrise whilst, as twilight descends, the dramatic shadows that play across the bay as the sun sinks behind those wild, green hills, provide the perfect backdrop for this different version of Koh Pha Ngan paradise.

By Alex Saint