Discover The Shabby Chic And Colonial Legacy Of Kolkata

Often misunderstood, India’s second largest city, Kolkata, is in fact a thriving city of emerging cosmopolitan culture; amidst a backdrop of diverse colonial legacies leftover from the British Raj, Spanish, Dutch, Portuguese and more.

The atmospheric destination has a laid back ambience of old world meets new; with its rich mix of dramatic architecture, contrasting communities, varied foodie haunts and a decadent art, music and literary scene.

Undoubtedly, you will see unsettling sights of poverty – images more commonly associated with the ‘City of Joy’ – however Kolkata is not the picture of human suffering that it may have been yesteryear. Though it still has a long way to go, you’ll probably be surprised at what a progressive city it has become. However, don’t be surprised if the scales get tipped back again as you’re approached by hand-drawn rickshaws offering taxi rides, or the option of having your shoes shined or hair trimmed as you walk down the street.

Yes, it’s dirty, it’s busy and it’s packed with contradictions, but it’s that rugged shabby-chic charm that will win you over. Additionally, Kolkata is a welcome departure from the usual attention you’re likely to receive at other Indian tourist traps. Here, you can go about your business with anonymity.

Where To Stay, Eat and Drink

Base yourself centrally on either the backpacker-ish Sudder Street or the more affluent Park Street – which a friend of mine and Kolkata native calls the Times Square of the city. Here is where most of the action is, packed with a plethora of shops, restaurants, bars, transport links, places of interest and more. This way you can easily tackle what’s nearby first and then head in either direction and go exploring. If you end up staying round there, make sure you pick up a kati roll on Park Lane; they’re like kebabs but better. Drive Inn does amazing vegetarian dishes while Raj’s Spanish Café is great for more continental stuff. For a drink and some live music you can head to Someplace Else, a pub style bar, or if you fancy something a bit upmarket, you can head to the Roxy – both are located in the Park Hotel.

Getting Around

Most of Kolkata’s sights are walkable, and seeing the city by foot is the best way anyway. Otherwise the subway is easily navigable. Personally, I would avoid taxis as they tend to overcharge, even though they are meant to use the meter before 8pm.

Things To Do In The City

Top of the list should be the Victoria Monument, a stunning labyrinth of a museum-cum-historical building dating back to the British Empire. Packed with art, statues and historical artefacts housed on large serene grounds, it’s a peaceful escape from urban life. Nearby are several interesting galleries and the picturesque St Paul’s Cathedral. Also check out the impressive Birla Planetarium, running two English-language shows daily. The slow-moving half-hour programme is unwittingly even more entertaining, due to the speaker constantly telling the notoriously chatty Indians to stop talking throughout.

The Mother Teresa Motherhouse is a compelling, yet conflicting place depending on your thoughts on the religious figure and the charity’s methods of care. But, as an important part of the city’s legacy, it’s worth exploring. Here you’ll find her tomb, a small museum and pieces including Teresa’s sandals, as well as her humble room, preserved in all its simplicity. Close by is also the wonderfully rustic South Park Cemetery. Explore its overgrown grounds, filled with the grand resting places of colonial figures that helped shape what the city is today.

Head to the New Market and Esplanade areas for markets selling handicrafts and more. You could also check out the nearby Indian Museum too if you’re game. Set on palatial style grounds, it houses a collection that may be more at home at Ripley’s Believe It Or Not. If pickled human embryos, a preserved eight legged goat or dinosaur-armadillo peak your interest, then you know where to go.

Finally, to experience the city in all its colonial glory, spend time walking around the BBD Bagh area. At times it feels like walking through the wintery streets of a European city – it’s truly atmospheric. Notable sites include the High Court, Writers’ Building, Kolkata’s General Post Office and St John’s Church, amongst many others you’ll see as you wander. There’s quite a few museums along the way too. The nearby Song Hay Chinese Restaurant is also another delicious place to grab a bite.

North Of The City

There are lovely sights north of the city but its best to book through West Bengal Tourism for sheer convenience (close to the Indian Museum and markets). There’s a bus tour that will take you to some notable temples and the Howrah Bridge, an architectural wonder built during the Second World War. Here, you’ll see fishermen working on the Hooghly River as well as a lively, colourful market at Mullik Ghat. You can also get some great shots of the bridge, though snap discreetly as you’re apparently not even meant to take photos of it.

The Marble Palace is another sight to tick off while in the area, though you’ll have to get a visitation permit from West Bengal Tourism beforehand. It’s a vibrantly decorated (despite it being run down), chandelier-clad colonial mansion. Filled to the rafters with a chaotic mish-mash of lavish artefacts including Ming vases, Egyptian statues, Victorian era pieces, Belgian glassware, 19th Century disco balls and more; the grounds offer a glimpse into the luxuriant lives of a well-heeled 19th Century Bengali household.

South Of The City

Pay a visit to The Kalighat Temple, an ancient pilgrim site and one of the holiest spots for Hindus in Kolkata. Frequently a crowded spot, it’s a bustling destination where ritual goat sacrifices take place. Decorated with flowers and feathers, as well as the contrasting incense aromas filling the air, the orderly chaos is defined by those anxiously queuing to get inside. But wandering the perimeter is just as effective and less time consuming.

Where To Next?

Book a Bengal Tiger spotting trip to the Sundarbans, the world’s largest tropical mangrove forest. A reasonable boat cruise is available via West Bengal Tourism. You’ll see a whole host of wildlife, including crocodiles and lots of wonderful scenery at this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Head north to the magnificent hill station of Darjeeling or to the holy Ganges, for a memorable spiritual experience in Varanasi.

For wildlife parks, tribal communities, ruins, temples and beaches, head to Odisha. It’s one of India’s best-kept secrets. I literally saw a handful of backpackers while exploring the state so for the traveller who likes to go off the beaten path, I’d highly recommend it.

Words and images by Sandy Dhaliwal