How To Survive The Khao San Road

The world famous Khao San Road, situated in Bangkok’s Banglamphu district, gained notoriety as a backpacker rite of passage and is often the first port of call for travellers entering Thailand – an iconic gateway between East and West.

Modern day Khao San has cashed in on its reputation as a one-stop shop for the budget traveller with guesthouses, cheap food and markets galore. As dusk falls, a riotous street party kicks off, with visitors and young Thais alike partying on into the small hours every night. Tattoo parlours, massage stalls, internet cafes and pop-up bars are so crammed into this short strip, the action has spilled over into nearby Soi Rambuttri and it is hard to imagine the days when this street was the peaceful, residential area where friendly locals first threw open their doors to hippy travellers looking to negotiate a cheap room for the night.

This frenetic hive of activity can be a little overwhelming on arrival, so how can you ensure you get the most out of your Khao San Road experience?

Book Ahead

There are a dizzying amount of guesthouses and hotels vying for business along Khao San and Rambuttri with the best bargains usually set back in the little alleys and lanes leading off the main strip. However, these accommodations vary hugely in terms of hygiene and value, so the best ones fill up fast. The best bet for a weary traveller looking for decent digs is to book ahead if at all possible, even if just for the first night or two.

A popular mid-range hotel is the famous D&D Inn. Situated smack bang in the middle of Khao San Road, right in the heart of the action, the iconic neon sign is large enough to stand out from the sea of glowing competitors. The big draw is the rooftop pool and bar – a luxurious respite from those hot and humid Bangkok afternoons.

A fantastic budget option is the clean, bright and professionally run Lamphu House, just off Soi Rambuttri. This charming hostel allows you to make bookings online, unusual for the smaller establishments.

Street Eats

Thai street food is in its element around Khao San Road. The main strip itself hosts a variety of carts catering for the late night drinking crowd, offering takeaway snacks such as satay and Pad Thai as well as delicious fresh fruit shakes, mango sticky rice and the ubiquitous banana pancakes. However, on the corner you’ll find several open-air shops with plastic, street-side seating, serving up authentic curries, soups and stir-fries for less than 100 baht. Walk on past the police station and turn right opposite the Wat and Soi Rambuttri for even more choice.

Soi Rambuttri, lit up by paper lanterns at night and a welcome contrast to Khao San’s party vibe and thumping music, offers up excellent street food options tpp as well as affordable seafood BBQs.

Both streets are lined with bars offering beer, cocktails and bucket deals and there are several quirky, pop-up bars that roll up as evening sets in, including a tiny, reggae bar and an adapted campervan. Treat yourself to a Mai Thai or Mojito or follow the rest of the backpacker crowd and just grab a couple of cheap beers from the local 7-Eleven (they will open the bottle at the counter for you) and take your drinks on the road.

Flag Down A Tuk-Tuk

Khao San Road is a convenient location to visit some of Bangkok’s traditional sights. The Banglamphu area plays host to the Democracy Monument, the Golden Mount and the National Museum whilst the mighty Grand Palace and impressive Wat Pho are but a short tuk-tuk journey away.

Bear in mind that those loitering around Khao San will not offer the best rates. A better option is to flag a passing tuk-tuk down and negotiate with the driver. Journeys are not as cheap as you might think – often a taxi is better value for longer journeys – but the experience of speeding through the busy, Bangkok traffic in one of these snazzy little vehicles is a must for many visitors. Ensure you agree to go straight to your destination and not via the driver’s friend’s tailors/gem shop/jewellery store – they often receive a commission on sales and can be very persuasive in order to get you to stop by.

Shop ‘Til You Drop

Khao San Road is filled to the brim with street market stalls and shops. Aimed predominantly at the budget traveller crowd, you can pick up anything you might need for your trip including books, flip-flops and a whole range of fashion items from swimsuits and shorts to pretty dresses and made-to-measure suits.

Despite the cheap and cheerful nature of the markets, it is still possible to make some quality purchases such as real, leather goods and silver jewellery – visit the reputable JC Jewellery Centre for some good deals. Haggling is a must and you’ll find it quite easy to blow your baht on a whole new wardrobe for your trip.

Love it or hate it, the commercialization of this famous district has changed the face of the area beyond recognition. However, for those travelling on a shoestring and looking to mingle with other hedonistic backpackers, a visit to the Khao San Road is still an unparalleled and unforgettable experience.

By Alex Saint