Kanchanaburi: Gateway To Central Thailand

Once a sleepy, rural town flanking the banks of the vast and meandering River Kwai, Kanchanaburi has blossomed into a popular tourist destination in recent years. Its notoriety has risen amongst travellers as the ideal base for exploring one of the most picturesque, rural regions as the gateway to Central Thailand.

The town is situated just a short, two-hour bus journey from the bright lights of Bangkok, set in an area infused with outstanding natural beauty. This region is characterised by an abundance of national parkland and waterfalls, whilst the town itself is steeped in history and scattered with an assortment of wallet-friendly guesthouses and places to eat and drink.

Orientation

Kanchanaburi is perched on the northern banks of the river, where the Kwai Noi and the Kwai Yai converge. There is a peaceful, rural vibe to the area – the mighty river wends its way through vegetation and past riverside shacks where local women hang out their laundry and children play.

The town is a little spread out so unless you are a keen walker, the best way to get around is to hire a bicycle, scooter or simply flag down one of the motorbike taxis or songthaews (converted pick up trucks) that roam the main street looking for customers. If you’re hoping to investigate sights in the surrounding areas but don’t fancy joining an organised tour and consider yourself pretty flexible, catch a ride from the local bus station – they generally run on time.

The Sights Of Kanchanaburi

The iconic sight many associate with Kanchanaburi is visible from the town itself. The formidable, iron bridge that spans the river, found fame in the highly acclaimed, fictional account of the real life events that occurred here in World War II, The Bridge On The River Kwai. The bridge forms part of the dark history of the hellish Death Railway where countless POWs and Asian construction workers were forced to construct a Japanese military supply link between Bangkok and Burma, thousands losing their lives in the process. There are several war cemeteries paying tribute to those that died as well as museums providing a fascinating history of the events.

The most interesting of these memorial experiences is arguably Hellfire Pass. This section of the railway holds a reputation as one of the most brutal sections to be completed, with labourers forced to work 18 hours a day to cut a path through the rock by hand. Now, the pass is surrounded by jungle, provides guided tours, and hosts an informative museum.

For the traveller more inclined to explore the offerings of good, old Mother Nature than the historical memorabilia of World War II, Kanchanaburi is the gateway to paradise. The scenic valleys of Central Thailand are a short drive away with treasures in the form of caves, lakes and waterfalls scattered liberally throughout the mountainous terrain, thick with vegetation.

One of the most awe-inspiring natural wonders of the region is Erawan National Park. Bring a swimsuit and plenty of sunscreen to embark on the easy trek to the seventh tier of the exquisite, turquoise-coloured, Erawan Falls. The first tier consists of a series of shallow pools lined with picnic benches – an ideal lunch stop as long as you keep your eyes peeled for thieving monkeys. However, the highlight of the falls is without a doubt the astoundingly beautiful third tier waterfall, a cascading curtain plunging into a deep freshwater pool, ideal for swimming. Watch out for the fish that can’t help but nibble your feet when you’re stationary – they are harmless but can give you a shock.

Another nearby tourist attraction is the often talked-about and quite controversial Tiger Temple. Monks and volunteers bring up tiger cubs by hand in this forest sanctuary as well as an assortment of wild creatures such as buffalo, deer and wild boar – many roaming free around visitors.

Where To Eat And Drink

The cheapest eats in town can be picked up at the day and night market – a selection of street vendors and stalls that set up shop around the bus station. Maenam Kwai Road also offers a selection of decent restaurants such as Mangosteen, a backpacker oasis with real coffee, a smattering of tasty, international fare, book exchange and free Wi-Fi.

This main road is also the best bet for bars, with the majority aimed at the expat crowd, featuring the standard pool table and flat-screen TV. Rasta Bar is a little more exotic with regular, live reggae performances and floating discos that are popular amongst Thai people – listen out for the thumping speakers drifting down the river most nights.

Where To Sleep

There’s an abundance of comfortable guesthouses in Kanchanaburi, catering to the gently flourishing backpacker scene. Maenam Kwai Road is your best bet to seek out a bed for the night and if booking ahead, Xanadu is the winner of a Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence due to its bargain prices, perfectly sculpted grounds and refreshing swimming pool.

Thai Garden Inn is also a popular choice, set about 10 minutes off the main high street in a colourful garden setting with a selection of charming huts to choose from. For something a little bit different, there are several rafthouse operations where you can sleep on a boat and float your way down the river.

A peaceful, rural town with a convenient array of backpacker amenities, Kanchanaburi provides a welcome respite from the bustle of Bangkok. In terms of accessibility to a variety of natural and historical sights and activities whilst sticking to a backpacker budget, Kanchanaburi certainly ticks all the boxes.

By Alex Saint