Koh Pha Ngan By Motorbike

Koh Pha Ngan has been seducing travellers with its siren song of hedonistic full moon parties, jungle covered hills and palm fringed beaches for many a year. Despite the fact that each month the hordes descend to throw some serious neon-painted shapes on Haad Rin, the island still has the ability to offer super cheap accommodation and seriously chilled out spots to string up your hammock and watch the waves roll.

It’s an island with several faces and unlike its perfectly petite, little neighbour, Koh Tao, visitors are often surprised at the long stretches of road and rollercoaster steep hills that typify the island’s landscape. Getting around Koh Pha Ngan isn’t a total piece of cake. Of course, there are many passing song-thaews trawling the streets for passengers (just flag one down and negotiate with the driver before leaping in the back) but some of us prefer a little more independence, and unless you have knees of steel, walking or cycling those mega-hills just isn’t a feasible option.

One of the best ways to explore this island is by motorbike. However, there are a few things to be aware of when biking around Koh Pha Ngan. First off, the hills around Haad Rin, the island’s party capital, are simply not worth the risk. Loose sand and treacherous slopes have seen a lot of nasty accidents. In fact, it has to be said that Koh Pha Ngan is not the best island to learn how to ride a bike – you’ll feel more comfortable if you have some experience. However, if you stick to the well paved roads that web out from the main western highways and drive safely, you’ll feel like the island’s your oyster, tooling around with the wind in your hair.

Where To Stop Off

The north of the island plays host to a charming, little fishing village, Chaloklam, where you can watch the boats come in and enjoy the fresh sea air, away from the majority of the tourists. It goes without saying that this village is an excellent place to sample real, fresh-off-the-boat seafood. You can also park up and hitch a long-tail boat to explore some of the legendary beaches of the north coast beaches.

A little further south, be sure to stop off with some snorkelling gear at Mae Haad. This lovely beach has plenty of shady trees to cool down under and great swimming. At low tide, the sand bar that leads out to jungle islet, Ko Ma, emerges – there are some choice snorkelling spots to the west of this area.

Back on the coastal road, it’s time to drop by tiny little Haad Salad, a beach with a bohemian vibe and selection of bars, littered with Thai cushions. Sit and relax with a refreshing beverage or a spot of lunch, looking out at one of the prettiest bays on the island. Haad Salad is an old pirate hangout and with its perfect, petite crescent of creamy sand and palm trees strung up with swings, you’ll feel like you’ve struck gold.

The next beach along, Haad Yao, is the most popular on the west coast and with good reason. Lots of space, great swimming and sunsets that will blow your mind, this is the place to come for some chilled late night drinks and BBQs right on the sand. Haad Yao is laidback compared to Haad Rin but is the busiest stop on the west coast in high season.

Enjoy some stunning, sea views as you continue your journey south, or choose to explore the loops of inland road, where you’ll spot coconut farms, an impressive Muay Thai boxing ring and the hilarious Total Wipe Out course on Laem Son Lake. There are also a smattering of small temples, a large Banyan tree and roadside elephants to spot as you whizz by.

The rocky, south west coast of Koh Pha Ngan has its charms too. Haad Chao Pao, Ao Hin Kong and Ao Wok Tum are pretty stretches for strolling. The soft palette of dusty tones – green palms, blue skies and pale sand – make a romantic backdrop for walking with your toes in the surf. Large volcanic boulders decorate the beach, so although it’s too shallow for swimming, you can carefully pick your way amongst them and find a perch to enjoy the view. The accommodations along this stretch, even the mid-range places, tend towards a rustic vibe, allowing the area to retain its natural charm and beauty.

Where To Stay

Avid travellers will love the vibe at Shiralea on the north-west side of the island, nestled between Haad Yao and Haad Salad. A bunch of comfortable huts set in a coconut grove, the staff are appropriately chilled and friendly; there’s a small pool and a nice communal area with a well stocked bar.

If you fancy going a little flashier, pick Sabai Beach Resort further down the coast, at the end of a dirt road and right on the beach. Choose a treetop room with floor to ceiling windows looking out on a quiet stretch of beach and enjoy the quietude and delicious buffet breakfast on offer.

Both of these accommodations are ideal for a motorbiking holiday, as they’re able to sort you out with a motorbike without an iota of hassle.

Where To Eat

At the end of your day, be sure to make one last trip to Thong Sala, the port town in the south. The night market that sets up in the car park of the Seven Eleven is one of the most impressive sights on the island, chock full of mouth-watering carts catering for all tastes from Thai to sushi to pizza – a perfect end to the perfect, Koh Pha Ngan day.

By Alex Saint